Vintage Clothing Boom Raises Sustainability Questions

The growth of Europe’s vintage clothing market has increased its attractiveness as a business proposition for large companies. As a number of chain stores have entered the market in the past decades concerns have been raised about potential waste in the supply chain of an industry in which sustainability has traditionally been prized. 

According to a recent report by market analysts at Future Market Interests Incorporated, a global business intelligence company, the second-hand apparel market in Europe is worth more than €20 million in 2024 and projected to grow by more than almost 100% in the next decade. The increased profitability of the sector has attracted the interest of private equity, raising concerns about unsustainable practices in an industry in which independent stores have historically dominated. 

Curated Clothing

Traditionally, vintage clothing has been sold by independent stores in which stock is hand-picked by employees. This approach tends to emphasize both style and sustainability and remains preferred by independent stores in the city of Groningen. According to Hidde, 21, who manages vintage store Stardust: ‘We go to this huge lodge and there we handpick every piece of the clothing that we have.’ In hand-selecting pieces, independent stores hope to prevent unnecessary waste. ‘We never throw away or get rid of stuff. We always keep it because we know that fashion always comes back,’ says Wiktoria, 19, manager of Lilo’s Vintage ‘We are sustainable and we don't get rid of stuff. We do a pretty good job in keeping things timeless as well.’ 

Buying in Bulk

This hand-selected approach contrasts with the model generally favoured by chain vintage retailers, where buying clothing in bulk is more common. According to reporting from COSH!, a fashion sustainability advocacy group, chain retailers typically purchase clothing by the tonne and sort out in demand items. Claims that leftover textiles are recycled are common but difficult to verify, according to the report. The extended nature of this supply chain raises questions about its sustainability relative to the hand-selected approach. Indeed, employees of Vintage Island, a chain store, admitted to not knowing the purchasing process for their stock, saying it was handled centrally by a corporate office. 

For some, the buy-in-bulk approach represents a fundamental change to the philosophy of sustainability which underlies the vintage market. ‘It always depends on their like vision of sustainability. Because you can't call yourself, you know, a thrift chain without actually committing to what thrifting is about, which is the curation and the searching’ says Wiktoria.